A Lucknawi Tradition

According to chikan embroiderers and Lucknawi laymen alike, the history of chikan, particularly since the mid-century, is essentially a story of inexorable decline. This period coincided with the growing commercialization and cheapening of chikan and corresponded with shifting to the almost complete feminization of the embroidery stage.

Over the last twenty years or so, many other designers have been working with this craft, far too many to be listed here. Most of them are developing designs within traditional patterns or more precisely within what is perceived to be traditional. On the wave of such successes, a huge market for chikan has developed catering to all means and tastes, both in India and globally. Lucknow has become a major hub for all sorts of hand embroidery productions that are indistinctly grouped under the 'chikan embroidered' label.

The process begins with the mahajans (businessman or entrepreneur), who invest capital in the preliminary steps of the production. They buy the fabric, get it cut, stitched and printed with the tracings for the embroidery work. Then the dalal or thekedars (middleman or agent) distribute the work among the karigars (artisans), collect the finished pieces, deliver them back to the entrepreneur, receive the money and distribute the payments to the artisans for the work that they have done. 

The number of chikan embroiderers was estimated to be around 40,000 in Lucknow and neighbouring districts in the mid-80s. They are now assessed at over 250,000 thousand, most of them home-based workers. The entire cycle is now estimated to sustain over 1 million people.

The distinctive feature of the chikan industry in Lucknow is its highly segmented and specialized nature, with a network of interdependent craftsperson organized in a spread out production line - each stage being completed at different places by different artisans. It is dependent on smooth coordination of the various steps and on the liaison between the different actors and craftsperson involved in the process.