Rather unique to chikan embroidery is the method of transferring the embroidery motifs onto the cloth, it is done with carved wooden blocks made by the thappakars (block makers) while the transfer in other forms of embroidery is generally from khakhas or perforated tracings on paper.
The blocks are made of Indian rosewood called Shisham, a hardwood that does not absorb water and is not attacked by termites. The wood should be well seasoned to avoid distortions or breaking. One side of the block is smoothened and painted with white chuna (lime) and the design to be chiseled out is drawn or transferred on it from a drawing on translucent paper. Then using a square wooden stick as a hammer and with a precision that defies imagination, the craftsmen carve the most intricate, large motifs or the most minuscule ones on tiny blocks. They use very simple tools that they make themselves, such as a hand drill and a few chisels of different sizes and shapes.
Block making is an endangered craft. These talented craftsmen, similar to so many other craftspeople in India, face the problem of situating themselves within the contemporary market economy. Even though the market is thriving these days, mass-produced commercial work has no use for intricate blocks carved with very fine lines.
Arka is a block used for borders with a design consisting of three smaller borders generally the broader one is in the middle.
Kantha is the 'quarter moon block' with the shape of the typical neckline on angarkha or Bangala kurtas. Its name derives from kanth (neck).
Bel is a straight, single border, more or less wide, generally placed around the front opening of a kurta. Bel is also the name used for the creeper designs used in oblique lines across dupattas and saris, or to fill or edge any other plain space.
Kat bel is a border with a scalloped motif on one side; kat is also the name of the buttonhole stitch which is generally used as hemming. Some bel has on one or on both sides straight lines to make hathkati.
Koni is a block with a pointed motif that is placed at the corners of a kurta.
Buti a block of small motifs or small flower designs whereas buta is a block with a large single motif, generally flowers and a keiri motif.